116523 is roughly $27,500, but the same model from the same production year and said to be in very good condition with box and papers is going for $20,771 on Chrono24, while a new 40 mm Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. “It’s going to be hard to satisfy, because not going to make sense next to the modern stuff.” At Bucherer, the retailer Rolex appointed to receive its debut CPO lot, a 2006 40 mm two-tone Cosmograph Daytona Ref. “Rolex can’t compete with because it has certain standards to maintain, and then it’s also selling new watches,” he says. ![]() New York–based dealer Gai Gohari believes pre-owned sellers will benefit from these CPO programs. “Vintage buyers don’t even like to see a Rolex service card when they’re buying a watch, as that means it’s likely been polished and had parts replaced.” “I’m mostly focused on buying watches, so I don’t see it affecting me at this point,” Eric Wind, dealer and owner of Wind Vintage, says. The programs also provide the guarantee of authenticity, a new warranty, and, in Rolex’s case, a nice wax-seal tag.īut are they too late to the party? Many vintage dealers seemed unfazed by the announcements. Finding a Rolex or an AP at retail remains a sport akin to unicorn spotting, so a pre-owned offering at least promotes the possibility of buying a watch in store-albeit at a significantly higher cost than their (intentionally) scarce new models. Both brands have seen after-market auction prices, and those achieved by dealers, reach stratospheric heights since 2020.īeyond the financial benefits, these programs are also touted by brands as a service to clients. By January, Audemars Piguet followed suit, announcing that its own CPO would launch by the end of the year. Journe, and MB&F began reselling in 2015, 2016, and 2018, respectively-but when Rolex announced it was launching a certified pre-owned program (CPO) last December, it was a game changer: Few brands have the power to shift an entire industry dynamic more than the Crown. ![]() Some are already there-independents such as Richard Mille, F. While prices have softened in the face of tighter markets over the past six months, watchmakers at the high end are realizing there’s still money to be made in their own circular economies. ![]() If the watch industry has learned anything in recent years, it’s to pay attention to secondary-market valuations.
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